.png)
It’s been a whirlwind 2 ½ months since my last blog post - time seems to have merged days into weeks and weeks into months! We have been consumed with sailing life and so much has happened that I almost don’t know where to begin.
The past couple of months have been a blur of exhilarating experiences, unforeseen challenges, and unforgettable moments that have left me both awestruck and exhilarated.
As I sit down to recount these incredible times, I’m excited to share the highs and lows and the sheer beauty of our journey since departing French Polynesia.
French Polynesia to Niue Passage
"You'll never cross an ocean unless you have the courage to leave the shore." This simple quote says it all. No matter how much planning and preparation you do, there comes a moment when the only thing left to do is to take that leap and set off on your journey. It's easy to get caught up in the details, refining your plans and ensuring every possible outcome is accounted for, but eventually, you'll realise that the real challenge isn't in the preparation, it's in the departure.
As part of our passage preparation, we reached out to Bob McDavitt, a renowned weather guru based in New Zealand. With his expertise, we were able to determine the optimal weather window for our sail from Bora Bora to Niue. After reviewing the forecasts, Bob gave us the green light to set sail on the 31st of May. However, he also warned us that the journey wouldn't be without its challenges. We would need to "brace for impact" during a couple of tense moments due to an approaching trough, a low-pressure system, and a significant southern sea swell.
During passages, I keep a daily log, which you can find here. I won’t recount all the details, but in summary, we experienced a mix of days filled with champagne sailing and moments of sheer terror. One memory stands out with such clarity that it still leaves me a bit traumatised whenever I think about it - the night we got stuck in a squall for 3 ½ hours and were hammered with torrential rain, gale force wind and lightning!
After 9 days at sea, we eventually found our sailing groove. The watches, constant sail adjustments, squalls, and the ever-changing sea state can be exhausting, but through it all, Agápē took every condition in her stride. She’s such an incredible boat – she literally ate up the miles while keeping us safe.
I'll never forget the last morning of our passage. While I was on watch, I could see the lights of Niue glowing faintly in the distance. It felt like a beacon of hope after the long journey. I handed over to Marc and went below for some much-needed sleep. When I came back up and saw a big blob on the radar, I asked, "Is that a squall?" Marc replied with a grin, "No—that's Niue!"
With that, we knew our passage was nearly complete. We made the call to Niue Radio to announce our arrival, and early that morning, we rounded the southern tip of the island and made our final approach to Alofi. The sense of relief and accomplishment was overwhelming.
During our passage from Bora Bora we’d stayed in touch with our new friends, Jeff and Michelle, aboard Infinite Grace. Their companionship had quickly become a cherished part of our journey, and knowing they were ahead of us provided an extra layer of reassurance. We also had Peter Mott from Passage Guardian and our families keeping a close eye on us. Apologies whanau for any stress we caused!
As we entered the mooring field at Alofi, it didn’t take long before we heard Michelle’s voice over the VHF, “Welcome to Niue, Agápē!”. It felt like we were being greeted by family. Jeff and Michelle had arrived about 24 hours ahead of us. Once we had secured Agape, we let out a collective sigh of relief and hugged each other. And then, echoing across the water, came a joyful "wahhhoooo!" from Jeff and Michelle – a triumphant cheer that perfectly captured the moment. We had completed our first significant passage!
But they didn’t stop there. Barely had we finished securing the lines when Jeff and Michelle appeared in their dinghy, beaming and bearing a gift that couldn’t have been more perfect: freshly baked hot muffins.
From Vision to Reality
In July 2023 we escaped to Niue to enjoy a short holiday. As we were boarding the flight, we found ourselves browsing the internet looking at yachts for sale, and there she was - Agápē. She was everything we could have hoped for in a boat, but the idea of going all the way to Tahiti to buy her felt like a daunting leap.
Fast forward to our last day in Niue, as we stood overlooking the mooring field, a sense of longing washed over us. “One day, we’ll come back here on our own boat,” we mused. And then, life happened. We made that leap of faith, travelled to Tahiti, and became the owners of Agápē and embarked on a journey that has been equal parts challenging and rewarding.
Fast forward one year later, we found ourselves sailing into that very mooring field in Niue, aboard Agápē. The dream we casually spoke into the universe has become our reality. It’s one of those full-circle moments that leaves you in awe of how life unfolds, sometimes in the most unexpected and perfect ways.
Play Time with Friends in Niue
After the challenging passage to Niue, we were more than ready for a little break from yacht life. The mooring field in Alofi, though beautiful, can be a bit rolley as the swell wraps around the island, making for a less than peaceful night’s sleep. So, when our friends Jeff and Michelle reached out with the idea of taking a mini holiday on land, we jumped at the chance.
The thought of a hot shower, a comfy bed, and a few days on solid ground was too appealing to resist. We quickly booked ourselves into the Matavai Resort, a lovely spot perched on the cliffs with stunning views of the ocean. We rented a car and set off to explore the island, eager to share some of our favourite places with Jeff and Michelle.
Having been to Niue before, it was a joy to revisit the places and introduce them to our friends. Of course, no trip to Niue would be complete without diving, and we made sure to fit in several amazing dives with Niue Blue. The underwater world around Niue is nothing short of spectacular, with crystal-clear waters, vibrant coral, and an abundance of marine life.
After our rejuvenating mini holiday on land, we returned to Agape, feeling refreshed and ready to dive back into life on the water. For the next two weeks, we continued exploring and savoured swimming and free diving in crystal-clear waters. Hanging out with Jeff and Michelle made it even more special.
Since leaving French Polynesia, it’s as if we’ve turned a corner in our journey. The challenges of passage making, the constant adjustments, and the uncertainties of life at sea, have all led us to this point – a place where it finally feels like we’ve found our rhythm.
As we prepared to set sail for Tonga, we left Niue feeling like different people, more in tune with ourselves and the world around us. We’ll carry these memories with us as we continue our journey, grateful for the time we’ve spent on “The Rock”.
Niue to Tonga Passage
Our passage from Niue was a short one and for the most part, it was pretty cruisy. These kinds of passages are a welcome respite, a chance to enjoy the simplicity of sailing without the intensity that sometimes accompanies longer journeys. But it’s the nights at sea that have truly captured our hearts.
There’s something almost magical about sailing at night, especially when the stars are out, and the conditions are calm. It’s become one of our favourite times, those quiet hours when the world is asleep, and it’s just us, Agápē, and the vastness of the ocean.
Providing the conditions aren’t too spicy, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of surrendering to the experience, letting the rhythm of the waves and the twinkle of the stars guide you through the night.
While on watch, we’ve made it a practice to do just that – be on watch. No distractions, no reading, no music – just being fully present in the moment and closlely monitoring Agápē and conditions. When mother nature is playing nicely, it provides a time for reflection, a chance to let your thoughts wander and settle. For me, these moments often bring my mind back to my family and friends, and the realisation of how important it is to cherish the people around you.
There’s something about the vulnerability of being out there, surrounded by the vastness of the ocean, that sharpens your awareness. It’s as if the solitude and the silence give you the space to truly connect with what matters most. In those moments, I’m reminded of the value of relationships, of love, and of the preciousness of time.
Sailing has a way of peeling back the layers, of making you see things more clearly. And under the stars, with the ocean as your only companion, you can’t help but feel a deep sense of gratitude – for the journey, for the people in your life, and for the simple beauty of being alive.
Falling in Love with Tonga
Arriving in Tonga felt like the culmination of a long-held dream and it was a monumental moment that we had envisioned for so long. We arrived very early in the morning, just before the first light of dawn, so we decided to heave to and wait for daylight before making our way into Neiafu Harbour.
As the sun began to rise, we finally made our approach and while navigating the channel, we spotted a dinghy heading our way. It was our friends, Jeff and Michelle! In true legendary fashion, they came bearing a pot of fresh coffee. They guided us into the tricky customs dock and assisted us with securing the lines. We couldn’t have asked for a warmer or more welcoming arrival.
Since setting foot in Tonga, we’ve been blown away by the people we’ve met and the experiences we’ve had. The sailing community here is welcoming, and we’ve enjoyed some incredibly social times, sharing stories, tips, and laughter with fellow sailors.
Exploring the various anchorages around Vava’u has been a joy. Each one offers something unique, and there’s always a new spot to discover. Despite all we’ve seen, we still have so many more places we want to visit, which is a testament to the beauty and diversity of this region.
But perhaps what has stood out the most are the Tongan people. They are humble, proud, and incredibly warm-hearted. They are happy to welcome us into their world, provided we show the respect it deserves. Tonga has already carved out a special place in our hearts and we’re savouring every moment of it.
Spa Treatment for Agápē
One of the many perks of being in Vava’u is the excellent haul-out and boatyard facilities available here, so we decided to take full advantage of them. Agápē was in need of some TLC, and this was the perfect opportunity to give her the attention she deserves.
We treated her to a full spa day - she was hauled out, cleaned up, and had some much-needed maintenance done. It’s always satisfying to see her looking her best, ready for further exploration.
One of the biggest upgrades we made was installing a brand new anchor chain, which we had ordered from New Zealand. For too long, we’ve been making do with rusty, inadequate chain. But now, with the new chain in place, we can finally anchor with confidence, knowing that Agápē is secure and safe.
Getting all this work done in Vava’u isn’t just about keeping Agápē in top shape; it also means we’re well-prepared for the stringent bio-security requirements in New Zealand. That’s a huge relief, knowing that we’ve ticked all the necessary boxes before we continue our journey south.
What Next?
Vava’u has been incredible, and we’re not quite ready to leave just yet. We plan to continue exploring this stunning area before heading south in September to the Ha’apai group of islands, where we’ll spend about six weeks soaking in the beauty and tranquility of this remote paradise.
After our time in Ha’apai, we’ll make our way to Tongatapu to prepare Agápē for the passage back to New Zealand. Our friend Deano is joining us for this passage and we can’t wait to have him on board. It’s hard to believe that we’re already thinking about the journey home, but the time has come to start making plans. Initially, we considered heading to Australia, but the thought of enduring the Aussie summer heat on a boat quickly changed our minds. Plus, we need to top up the bank account, which means it’s time for us to return to work.
We’ve booked a mooring in Russell, and we’re looking forward to exploring Northland and spending quality time with friends and family over the summer. We are also planning a quick trip to the UK for Christmas to visit family and friends there. Even though we’ll be back in New Zealand for summer, we’re committed to keeping our dream alive by continuing to live on Agápē . Moving back into our house just doesn’t feel right as it would be like closing the chapter on this incredible journey, and we’re not ready for that.
We’ve booked the mooring for six months, and we’ve set a goal of sailing to Fiji next winter. The idea of reuniting with friends Jeff and Michelle is a strong motivator, but as with all things, we’ll see how it pans out. There’s a long list of improvements we want to make to Agápē, some of which will require significant investment, but we’re ready to tackle those challenges as they come.
On a final note, I want to share how much this experience has changed us. We’ve realised that we can’t go back to living on land just yet - we want to keep going, to keep exploring, and to keep living this life we’ve worked so hard to create. We don’t have all the answers, and we’re not sure how we’ll fund it, but we’ll figure it out as we go.
For anyone out there with a dream that feels out of reach, I urge you to go after it now - no matter how daunting it feels. Life is too short to wait. This journey has taught us that the time is now, and we’re more determined than ever to keep chasing our dreams, wherever they may lead.
Disclaimer
I have written this blog with the assistance of ChatGPT! As a business analyst I am all about embracing new technology and AI (Artificial Intelligence) is the way of the future…
Wow. You are living life to the fullest and aking great memories! Thanks Leticia for your update and photos. Ian.