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If I am completely honest, the last eight weeks have been incredibly tough and there have been several moments where we have questioned our decision to buy a “turnkey” yacht in Tahiti.
When we purchased Agápē, as part of our due diligence we had her surveyed by a professional and at the time, no significant issues were raised. Unfortunately, during our time living on board we have discovered repairs that need to be addressed before we attempt to cross oceans. Tackling repairs in the oppressive heat has left us ratty and exhausted.
Last weekend however was a monumental moment, as we left the dock and had our first shake down sail to test the rigging and sail repairs. We still have several items to tick off the “to-do” list, but each day we are edging closer and closer to being able to leave the marina for good!
Eight Weeks of Hard Graft!
So, what have we been doing for the last eight weeks??? Outlined below are all the things we’ve had to tackle. It is also a reminder to ourselves of how much we have achieved. When you are head down into a “project”, it’s too easy to not celebrate the wins! Marc has been nothing short of a legend and without his tenacity and hard work our dream of sailing off into the sunset would not be achievable.
The Stuff We Knew About
Got a third reef put in the main. This reduces the sail size significantly when the weather gets spicy.
Installed a new lazy bag. Basically, it’s a bag that is permanently fitted to the main sail and it makes taking the sail down easier (and it looks so good!).
Installed a 3000W 240V inverter. This essential item means we can run 240V appliances such as our new Nespresso coffee machine, toaster, and vacuum cleaner. For those that know me, “Monica” was extremely excited to have coffee on demand and a vacuum cleaner!
Registered Agape to New Zealand.
Obtained a Maritime Mobile Service Identities (MMSI) number from New Zealand.
Washed all the interior curtains and squab covers.
Standing rigging checked (the bits that hold the mast up).
Boat lettering updated (Agape is now officially a Kiwi vessel!).
Installed IridiumGO for satellite communications.
Arranged for Vesper AIS to be reprogrammed.
Drafting Standard and Emergency Operating Procedures for Agape. This is a massive task and is required for New Zealand registered vessels when they apply for their Cat 1 status. Technically we don’t need to do this to before we leave French Polynesia, however documenting SOP’s makes you investigate and research every system. There are a few old manuals on board, but otherwise we are having to figure things out for ourselves (we didn’t get a handover with the previous owners).
Obtaining fuel and food provisions using a trolley (many, many kilometres!).
The electronics are old and need updating. Marc is exploring options on how we can get what we need out of the old technology – this is still a work in progress.
The Completely Unexpected Stuff
Holding tank repairs – we discovered not one, but two leaks. After our repairs, we filled the holding tank for four days and had no water leaks. Fingers crossed these repairs have done the trick.
Adjusted the Monitor windvane pinion. This is a self-steering system, but it was only steering one way!
Obtained 100m of new mooring line and installed in preparation for three tropical depressions that rolled through. The Papeete Marina is a shocker and we had to tie up to the piles rather than the pontoons as the marina literally falls apart.
Obtained a new mattress topper (the old was hanging!).
Removed the enormous gas bottle off the rail and obtained a smaller LPG bottle for the propane locker.
Repaired the gas lines and made compliant. A high-pressure hose and fitting had been repaired with electrical tape!
Repaired the staysail and jib.
Replaced all the running rigging (all the rope that makes the sails go up and down). The previous ropes were roached and were inoperable as they bunched and rode over the winches.
Replaced all the plumbing in the head (toilet). It was smelly, and the inside of the pipes were full of crystalised wee and sea water.
Replaced the raw water inlet pipe for the toilet as it was completely squashed under the bulk head (how we were managing to flush the toilet is a miracle!).
Repaired the holes in the floor following the holding tank pipe installation.
Replaced all canvas on the boat. When the dodger and bimini were removed the canvas and zips literally fell to pieces. The side pieces had shrunk and couldn’t be connected. Replacing all the canvas has been an expensive and time-consuming exercise!
Installed a new VHF aerial and GPS antenna plus wiring for the Vesper Automatic Identification System (AIS). This was a huge job but it now means we can be seen by other vessels.
Filled all the holes where electrical wires penetrate the hull so that we can stop water ingress.
Configured the Raymarine plotter so that we have an AIS overlay. This means we can see other vessels when looking at our chart plotter.
In preparation for the storms, we discovered the cleats on the bow have been retrofitted with no backing plate. When we sent a picture to a boat builder in New Zealand, his response was “dodgy”. We still need to replace the bolts and install a backing plate.
Discovered the windlass (electric winch for anchor) has been modified by the previous owner. They raised the windlass to address a known fault with the anchor chain slipping. They also removed the cleat on top of the windlass and bow fairleads which would have been used for the snubber and mooring. Not ideal as now the retrofitted cleats are the only option for the snubber and mooring.
We ordered a heap of safety stuff and parts from New Zealand as there are some things that are impossible to get in Tahiti!
The aft shower has been moved back into the cockpit. There was a gaping hole into the lazarette (storage area) and it was allowing water ingress.
Removed the old stereo cockpit speakers and filled holes to stop water ingress.
Removed the old plumbing fittings for the shower in the head and replaced with a simple wash that we’ll use for a bidet which will reduce our toilet paper use. I know how European of us!
Replaced the microwave that decided to stop working.
Installed a man overboard retrieval system and safety ladder.
Organised for the head hatch to be repaired – this should have been done by the previous owner but wasn’t.
Obtained an acrylic washboard so that if we take a wave over the stern, it won’t flood the cabin.
Discovered the expired life raft cannot be serviced in Tahiti and we now need to purchase a new one.
Installed a new gas stove – the old one had no flame failure device and was a rusted piece of shit.
We completely lost power twice. If this happens as sea, it is no OK! We consulted a Marine Electrician only to find our Lithium batteries were not wired correctly. This is hilarious as there is a YouTube video from the previous owners, sponsored by Xantrex, explaining how the installation was done. The batteries have now been wired correctly but we are still investigating this issue.
Three of our solar panels are only running at approximately 25% which means they need to be replaced. Thankfully we can source them in Tahiti, but another job to add to the list.
So, in a nutshell, there have been a lot of unexpected repairs required on our “turnkey” yacht. But the list is slowly diminishing, and we are getting closer every day to sailing off to explore French Polynesia. It has been a classic example of expectations vs reality. We thought we’d be sailing by now! The reality is the repairs will take as long as they take and there really is no time pressure as we have months before we need to leave French Polynesia. We aren’t leaving until we’re confident Agápē and her crew can sail safely to Aussie.
Tropical Cyclone Anxiety
At the beginning of February, tropical cyclone Nat made its way to Tahiti. In the days leading up to the storm we were concerned about the safety of ourselves and our vessel. Once a tropical depression is a named tropical cyclone, we have no insurance.
When we discovered the retrofitted cleats, we made the decision that mooring was not an option. We also had zero experience anchoring Agápē and we weren’t about to test the windlass (electric anchor winch) in a storm! In the end, we rode out the storm in the marina, and while uncomfortable, the wind and rain were not too sinister. Agápē is a solid girl, and she took the punishment in her stride.
Tropical cyclones are possible in French Polynesia until end of April, so we are praying that Tāwhirimātea and Tangaroa keep us safe!
Everyday we endure ferry wash in the marina and when the NW swell rolls in the movement is insane. It is honestly worse than being at sea! So many boats get damaged.
Cruise Ships
So many cruise ships frequent Papeete and it has become a constant source of amusement watching the enormous ships manoeuvering in the harbour. During Agápē's Captains Hour, we have been known to jump on the stern and wave goodbye to those departing Papeete. Those passengers lucky enough to stay the night get to watch us shower in the cockpit 🤣
We Love Tahitians!
The Tahitian people are a constant delight. When you greet them with an “Ia Ora Na” and give them a smile, they are thrilled that you spoke Tahitian to them rather than French. I am also wearing the Pounamu that mum and dad gifted me when I travelled in my early 30’s and this also helps the Tahitian people recognise me as a Kiwi! They love Kiwi’s! Some of the French expats in French Polynesia are a little haughty, but overall, everyone has been super friendly and helpful. They tolerate my appalling French and enjoy practising their English with me.
Over the coming weeks we hope to balance work and play. There is so much to see and do in Tahiti we look forward to exploring!
Pleased to see the long list is coming down and hopefully you don’t have any failures but on a positive you now know your yacht !! Ready at some time enjoy the journey of life and great adventures … keep up the great work ..
You are both legends! Bon courage pour la suite <3
Holy smokes! That's one helluva lot of work you guys have had to do! Hopefully it's "plain sailing" from now on ;-) Enjoy getting more of that play balance over the next few weeks!